Service Dog Health and Nutrition

Nutrition & Preventative Medicine

  • Coconut Oil Benefits

      Coconut oil has several benefits for your dog. It gently elevates the metabolism, provides a higher level of energy and vitality, protects your dog from illness, and speeds healing. As a bonus, coconut oil can improve dog’s skin and coat, improves digestion, and reduces allergic reactions. HEALTHY SKIN AND COAT
    • Clears up eczema
    • Aids flea allergies, contact dermatitis and itchy skin
    • Minimizes doggy odor
    • Reduces allergic reactions
    • Creates sleek and glossy coats
    • Prevents and treats yeast and fungal infections
    • When applied topically coconut oil promotes wound healing
    • Also can help with hot spots, dry skin and hair, bites and stings
     IMPROVES DIGESTION
    • Improves digestion
    • Increases nutrient absorption
    • Helps with colitis and inflammatory bowel syndrome
    • Reduces or eliminates bad breath
    • Helps with coughing
     "SUPERFOOD" BENEFITS
    • Assists with weight loss
    • Powerful antibacterial, antiviral and anti-fungal agents
    • Balances insulin and promotes normal thyroid function
    • Helps prevent or control diabetes
    • Aids arthritis and ligament problems
    • Helps prevent infection and disease
    • Aids in increasing energy

    HOW MUCH COCONUT OIL FOR DOGS

    How much coconut oil should you give your dog? When starting your dog on coconut oil, it is absolutely vital that you start slow. Begin slow, start with a tiny amount. Your dog needs to take time for their body to adjusts to the addition to their diet. If you start with larger amount of coconut oil, your dog could react poorly. Side effects can include diarrhea or greasy stools.
    START WITH SMALL AMOUNTS
    • ¼ teaspoon per day for small dogs and puppies.
    • 1 teaspoon for large dogs, or even just a dab if your dog's constitution is sensitive.
       After their bodies have adjusted a general guideline for the daily amount to give your dog is :
    • About 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight daily
    • Or about 1 tablespoon per 30 pounds
    Again, DO NOT start with these amounts in the beginning!
  • Things for Your Dog to Chew

    Dogs chew for a variety of reasons:  teething, boredom, stress, learning about their environment.  You need to teach your dog what is appropriate to chew on during those times by giving an appropriate chew toy when you catch your dog chewing on the something he is not supposed to, i.e. the table leg, couch, kids’ toys, etc.
    Dental hygeine: Oravet dental chews once daily

    Fractured teeth are one of the more common dental problems encountered by veterinary dentists. Broken teeth, more often than not, have exposed pulp tissues that subsequently become infected. Just like for humans, apical infection (apical periodontitis, dental “abscesses”) will occur in a matter of time. They are painful and cause exposure of the body to chronic bacteria infusion and inflammation. In most cases, the problem is caused by dogs being allowed to chew on objects that are just too hard for their teeth. These objects may actually be harder than the teeth.
    The following are great options for chewing.
    • Nylabone
    • Filled Femur Bones
    • Bully Sticks
    • Antlers
    • Kong
    • Apples
    • Carrots
    • Ice Cubes
    *** NO RAWHIDE of any kind*** If your dog seems to be bored with his kong or femur bone, you can fill these items with many things to keep your dog interested in chewing these items.  You can freeze these items into the item as well.
    • Yogurt – vanilla, strawberry, blueberry, plain
    • 100% Canned Pumpkin
    • Sweet Potato
    • Canned Dog Food
    • Baby Food
    • Applesauce
    • Peanut Butter
    • Pureed Fruits
    • Pureed Vegetables
    • Cottage Cheese
  • The difference between the various flea/tick preventatives are do they kill or kill and repel fleas and ticks and are they effective against other parasites.  Only two of the preventatives kill and repel fleas and ticks, as well as other parasites:  K9 Advantix II and Vectra 3D. SDWR exclusively uses Saresto collars for our service dogs in training. These affordable collars repel parasites that can harm your dog for 6-8 months at a time. We highly encourage our families to use these collars for their flea and tick prevention.
    • Kills & Repels:  Prevents fleas and ticks from getting onto your dog which prevents the transmission of diseases (lymes disease from ticks) and infestations.
    • Only Kills:  Fleas and ticks can get onto your animal and reproduce, transmit diseases or cause infestations.  The products that only kill once the parasite is on your animal allows fleas to reproduce and cause an infestation in your home and allows ticks to bite transmitting diseases.
    • Other parasites:
    1. Mosquitoes transmit heartworm disease.  Therefore the products that repel mosquitoes used along with heartworm preventative have your dog doubly protected.
    1. Mites are only killed and repelled by Vectra 3D.  This does not include mange mites.  Mites cause excessive itching, dandruff flakes, and more seriously infection from the scratching.
    1. Biting and sand flies can transmit diseases, cause infections and are irritating to your dog.
    1. Lice live on the skin of the dog feeding on either the skin or blood.  Lice can cause excessive itching, dandruff flakes and hair loss.
    FLEA & TICK PREVENTATIVE OPTIONS:
      Description Ingredient(s) Fleas Ticks Mosquitoes Mites Biting Flies Lice
    K9 Advantix II Monthly Topical Imidacloprid Permethrin Pyriproxyfen Kills & Repels all life stages Kills & Repels Kills & Repels N/A Repels Kills
    Frontline Plus Monthly Topical Fipronil (S)-methoprene Kills all life stages Kills N/A N/A N/A Kills
    Advantage II Monthly Topical Imidacloprid Pyriproxyfen Kills all life stages N/A N/A N/A N/A Kills
    NexGard Monthly Soft Chew Afoxolaner Kills adult fleas Kills N/A N/A N/A N/A
    Vectra 3D Monthly Topical Dinotefuran Pyriproxifen Permethrin Kills & Repels Kills & Repels Kills & Repels Kills & Repels Kills & Repels Kills & Repels
    Comfortis Monthly Tablet Spinosad Kills adult fleas N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
    FirstShield Monthly Topical Dineotefuran Pyriproxyfen Permethrin Kills & Repels all life stages Kills & Repels Kills & Repels N/A N/A N/A
    Bravecto 12 Week Soft Chew Fluralaner Kills adult fleas Kills N/A N/A N/A N/A
     
  • With families living all over the continent, your vet will be able to tell what products are most effective in your area.  The cost of these preventative products can be a factor.  Personally, I have seen flea/tick preventative range from $60.00 to over $100.00 for a 6 month supply.  Some companies also offer rebates when purchasing 6 or 12 months of preventative that can help with the cost.  Also, depending on where you live, ticks or other parasites may not be an issue.  The following information is a reference for you to use when discussing the options with your veterinarian. Heartworms are spread by mosquitoes.  When an infected mosquito bites a dog, the worm is transmitted and moves to the heart, lungs and blood vessels of the dog. It can take up to 6 months for blood work to show that a dog is heartworm positive.  If untreated, heartworms can be fatal. Whipworms look like tiny pieces of thread with on enlarged end and are transmitted by ingesting contaminated soil. Tapeworms look like flat connected rice-like segments and are transmitted by ingesting contaminated fleas or ingesting contaminated animals.  Can only be transmitted to humans by ingesting a contaminated flea. Hookworms look like small thin worms and are transmitted through ingesting or walking on contaminated soil or feces.  Can be transmitted to humans by ingesting contaminated soil or through the skin. Roundworms look like spaghetti and are transmitted from ingesting contaminated soil or feces or ingesting contaminated animals.  Can be transmitted to humans by ingesting contaminated soil.
    HEARTWORM PREVENTATIVE OPTIONS:
      Description Ingredient(s) Whipworms Tapeworms Hookworms Roundworms Fleas Other
    Heartgard Plus Monthly Oral Soft Chew Ivermectin Pyrantel Pamoate No No Yes Yes No No
    Iverhart Max Monthly Oral Tablet Ivermectin Pyrantel Pamoate Praziquantel No Yes Yes Yes No No
    Sentinel Monthly Oral Tablet MilbemycinOxime Lufenuron Yes No Yes Yes Yes No
    Sentinel Spectrum Monthly Oral Tablet MilbemycinOxime Lufenuron Praziquantel Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No
    Revolution Monthly Topical Selamectin No No No No Yes Ticks, Mites
    Advantage Multi Monthly Topical Moxidectin Imidocloprid Yes No Yes Yes Yes No
    Trifexis Monthly Oral Tablet MilbemycinOxime Spinosad Yes No Yes Yes Yes No
    ProHeart Bi-Annual Injection Moxidectin No No Yes No No No
  • Adult dogs need some vaccines annually while others can go for 3 years. This depends on your veterinary. Some states only provide a 1-year rabies vaccine while others proved a 3-year option. Here are the shots you must keep up to date:
    Leptospirosis: include leptospirosis in the combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs.
    Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern. Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if traveling to an area where it occurs.
    Rabies: Given by your local veterinarian (time interval between vaccinations may vary according to local law).

Homemade Dog Treats

Grain Free Peanut Butter Pumpkin

Ingredients

  • -1 ½ Cup Coconut Flour
  • -½ Cup Organic Peanut Butter
  • -3 Eggs
  • -½ Cup Coconut Oil (measure in solid form) (Melt then slightly cool)
  • -1 Cup Pumpkin Puree
Directions
  • -Preheat Oven to 350 degrees
  • Combine ingredients is large bowl Roll out dough about ¼ -  ½  inch thick, lightly dusted with coconut flour.
  • Cut your preferred shapes with a cookie cutter.
  • Set on parchment paper
  • Bake for 13-15 minutes. Should have a gold hint around the edges.
  • Let cookies cool
  • These Cookies can be stored in air tight containers for up to three weeks.

Healthy Grain Free Dog Biscuits  (soft bake)

Ingredients

  • 1 cup cooked black beans
  • ¼ Cup Organic/natural peanut butter
  • ½ a very ripe banana, mashed
  • 1 egg, whipped
Directions
  • Blend black beans well.
  • Combine beans peanut butter, and whipped egg
  • Stir until smooth
  • Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour
  • Pre-Heat Oven to 325 degrees
  • Drop by rounded teaspoon onto parchment paper or non stick cookie pan.
  • Cook for 15 minutes
  • Remove pan press with fork to flatten.
  • Bake 10 minutes
  • Let cool
These biscuits can be frozen then thawed before  consuming

Dog Grooming

Bathing

Bathing - The usual reasons for bathing a dog are to remove accumulated dirt and debris, to aid in the removal of dead hair at shedding time, to eliminate odor, and to improve the appearance of the coat. Routine bathing is not necessary for the health of the coat or the dog. In fact, frequent bathing can rob the coat of its natural sheen and make it harsh and dry. It is recommended for Labrador Retrievers to bathe twice a year to prevent from drying out the double coat. The shampoo dries out the natural oils in the coat which can cause dandruff and itching. You can spot clean or hose down with just water as needed. Dog cologne sprays help with the day to day dog smell.

Nails

Nails - Nail trimming is an important part of a regular grooming routine. If your dog’s nails get too long, they can break, which is painful and sometimes results in infection. Long nails can also cause an irregular gait that leads to skeletal damage. Nails should be trimmed every 2 – 4 weeks to maintain short, neat nails. If you are not comfortable trimming your dog’s nails, a groomer can quickly and easily trim the nails on a monthly basis. You can use nail clippers or a dremel tool. The benefits to the dremel tool are it is harder to cause pain and bleeding. However, it takes time and patience to get your dog comfortable with the noise and feeling of having their nails dremeled. You always want to associate nail trimming with sometime positive like a filled kong or treats.

Ears

Ears - Because of the twisty, curvy design of a dog’s inner ears, it is easy for parasites, bacteria and yeast to hide and thrive in them. This also means that any debris in the canal must work its way up to escape. Infections can result from trapped debris. Dogs with floppy ears are particularly vulnerable. Keeping the ears clean and dry can prevent infections and a vet visit. There are ear drops/powder that aid in drying out the ear canal after you dog has been bathed or swimming.

Brushing

Brushing - Brushing your dog’s coat is an important part of canine maintenance and serves many functions; for example, it eliminates tangles and mats, keeps his coat looking vibrant and beautiful, massages and lubricates his skin by activating your pet’s natural oils, and keeps errant pet hair away from clothing and furniture. It is recommended that you brush your dog at least weekly. Slicker – Flat or curved head with rows of thin wire pins that are slightly bent at the end. Used for de-matting and removing dead hair and undercoat from all coat types. The pins comb through hair to remove tangles while the bent ends gather dead hair, releasing it from the coat. Can be used daily. Furminator – A metal comb of tiny, sharp teeth and a center-set handle used to remove dead hair and undercoat from flat, short and combination coats or dead surface hair from heavy and double coats. Gently collects dead and loose hair without damaging skin to reduce shedding up to 90%. Use 2 – 3 times per week. Shedding Blade – A thin strip of metal with tiny teeth on one side used to remove dead hair from flat, short and combination coats. Tiny teeth grab dead or loose hair as you gently drag the “blade” along the coat in the direction of hair growth. Use 2 – 3 times per week. Rubber Curry – Firm yet flexible rubber teeth reach through the coat, down to the skin to massage and stimulate circulation while loosening hair, dead skin and dander. Also great to use when bathing your dog. Use 2 – 3 times per week. Bristle Brush – Natural or man-made bristles on a curved rubber base used to remove debris and also shine the coat on wirey and combination coats. Can be used daily. Pin Brush – Rows of straight pins that are often tipped at the ends with plastic rubber used for removing tangles from longer flowing coats such as silky and natural long, without removing hair. The pins comb through hair to remove tangles while the bent ends gather dead hair, releasing it from the coat. Can be used daily.

Teeth

Teeth - Proper dog dental care and cleaning is critical to your dog's health. Periodontal disease is the #1 diagnosed disease in dogs and can lead to bad dog breath, dog teeth problems, and more. To ensure your dog's dental health use teeth cleaning dog treats (Greenies), toothbrush/toothpaste, dental cleansing pads, and/or water additives. You should brush your dog’s teeth daily but at least a minimum of 3 – 4 times per week.

Oravet dental chews are an awesome tool. No more than 1 Oravet chew per day.

Canine oral health information courtesy of Thomas P. Chamberlain MS, DVM, DAVDC.

ADVANCED PERIODONTAL PROCEDURES & GINGIVAL SURGERY  Most periodontal (“around the tooth”) problems are the result of chronic periodontal disease (chronic infection) or injury.  Sometimes teeth with significant periodontal attachment loss (gingival recession/bone loss) and where the potential for controlling further tissue loss is reasonably good, advanced dental procedures can be performed to save these teeth.  Advanced periodontal surgery techniques can help avoid extraction and be utilized to help make teeth more stable, functional and therefore resistant to infection. Whether these procedures are necessary or even feasible for an individual patient can only be determined with the pet under anesthesia and after completion of a thorough oral exam that includes intraoral X-Rays.  If advanced periodontal surgical procedures are elected and undertaken, it is essential that the pet owners understand the following:  1) Post-surgical follow-up assessments (under general anesthesia) will be needed.  2) High levels of oral hygiene will need to be maintained at home.  3) As for any procedure, there is some risk of treatment failure. Advanced periodontal procedures available at Animal Dentistry & Oral Surgery and include:
  • Bone grafting
  • These procedures are needed when the infection of periodontal disease results in significant supportive bone loss around the tooth roots.
  • Replacing the bone, with grafting techniques, improves the health and stability of the tooth. Regeneration of bone will also provide an environment that promotes reattachment of the gingiva (gum tissue) at a more normal location on the tooth.  Resistance to ongoing infection will be enhanced.
  • Bone loss that results in a defect or periodontal pocket around a tooth root can be replaced using bone grafting procedures. It is difficult to impossible to replace bone loss that involves the furcational area (area between roots) or bone loss that extends across more than one root.  In these circumstances, infection just cannot be controlled and tooth extraction may be the best option. This one of the reasons why preventing periodontal disease is so important.
  • There are different sources for the bone actually utilized for the graft. Often these procedures are accomplished using bone obtained from osteoallografts (bone from the same species, but not from the same individual). There are companies that specialize in the engineering of graft products and provide these freeze dried, sterilized and packaged materials directly to the specialists.
  • In some circumstances, it is advantageous for bone graft material to be harvested from the patient’s own oral tissues (autogenous graft).
  • Following advanced periodontal procedures involving bone grafting, reevaluations under general anesthesia are usually necessary within 3 to 6 months to monitor healing at the surgical site.  Along with visual inspection, gentle probing and intra-oral radiographs will be needed to assess the health of the new bone at the site and to determine if the grafting procedure was successful in integrating new bone around the tooth roots.
 
  • Guided tissue regeneration (GTR):
  • These procedures are often done in-concert with bone grafting procedure and require incorporation of a special membrane over the graft. The GTR membrane will help protect the graft site and may improve the likelihood of new bone forming and healthy periodontal structures re-attaching to the tooth in anatomically appropriate locations.
  • As a result of GTR, undesired elements are kept out and normal periodontal tissues are “guided” into the appropriate location. A variety of absorbable membrane types are available and just like those used for human GTR procedures, a disadvantage is that they can be expensive.
  • The membrane is surgically placed below the gingiva (gum line) and secured into place with one or more sutures.
  • Whenever advanced periodontal procedures involving guided tissue regeneration are performed, reevaluations (under general anesthesia) are usually necessary within 3 to 6 months. As for bone grafting, gentle probing and intra-oral radiographs will also be utilized to assess the regeneration of bone and periodontal ligament tissues health at the site.
 
  • Gingival transposition surgery
  • These procedures are necessary when there has been a focal area of gingival loss or recession leaving the tooth root exposed and unprotected.
  • Gingiva (gum tissue) can be transposed (moved) from an adjacent area or even from other donor locations within the mouth (free transfer). As this is a surgical procedure there will be absorbable sutures placed at the site.
  MOST IMPORTANTLY: For the ongoing control of infection for all patient’s with  established periodontal disease, high levels (elevated levels) of oral hygiene care are required for the patient at home.   This is especially essential for any patient undergoing advanced periodontal procedures.  Usually, this will include daily oral tooth brushing and oral antiseptic rinses.  Also, more frequent professional dental cleaning will be necessary.  Once a year professional cleaning may not be adequate.  Without maintenance of high levels of oral hygiene at home, professional dental care alone will not be enough and heroic procedures to save the teeth will not be successful.   TOOTHBRUSHING FOR YOUR PET: General comments about oral hygiene for your pet:  Oral health is a function of professional therapy and continual daily home care.  One procedure without the other will result in a less than ideal outcome.  The type and amount of home care necessary depends upon the extent of oral pathology present.  This varies from animal to animal.  Some pets may get away with no home management, while for others even daily care may not suffice.  Success depends on the degree of plaque control you are capable of providing between professional visits. After the professional cleaning, the burden of oral health care shifts to the owner.  The gold standard of home care remains brushing of the teeth.  There are many unsubstantiated claims with regard to various products available for home care.  You may end up spending money on mostly useless products that may give you a false sense of security about what you are actually doing for your pet.  Nothing substitutes for regular professional cleaning and daily tooth brushing. Periodontal disease will progress if preventative steps are not taken.  To keep the teeth healthy and plaque free, a toothbrush must be used effectively.  When asked which teeth are most important to brush, the appropriate answer is “all the teeth”.  It is recognized that pets are not born to willingly accept tooth brushing, some refuse it, and some owners decline to provide it.  This is understandable in many situations; however, pet owners often have unreasonable expectations about what the veterinary dentist can provide from a professional cleaning “once every year or two”.  If you are unable to provide the necessary homecare, then more frequent professional cleanings are encouraged. Many young dogs and cats will have gingivitis and calculus deposits before they are one year of age.  In general, the first professional cleaning should occur by 18 months of age.  Almost all pets will benefit from a professional cleaning by the time they reach two to three years of age. Brush my what?  It is recognized that pets are not born to willingly accept tooth brushing, some refuse it, and some owners decline to provide it.  This is understandable in many situations; however, pet owners often have unreasonable expectations about what the veterinary dentist can provide from a professional cleaning “once every year or two”.  If you are unable to provide the necessary homecare, then more frequent professional cleanings are encouraged.  If you cannot provide either frequently enough, then your pet may be destined to have periodontal disease and its consequences.  The same holds true for humans. The bacteria really don’t care whether they’re invading a human or animal, it’s the same process. What are we trying to accomplish with toothbrushing? Toothbrushing is the mechanical removal of plaque and every attempt should be made to institute daily mechanical plaque removal.   The ultimate goal is to prevent gingivitis and periodontal disease.  These conditions are related to each other and are essentially infections caused by plaque bacteria.  Plaque is the fancy name for oral bacteria and film on the teeth.  After tooth eruption, the tooth surfaces are immediately colonized by bacteria.  Plaque rapidly accumulates as layers of a slime.  Plaque will cover all tooth surfaces within 24 hours of a professional dental cleaning.  Within two weeks, minerals will begin hardening on the plaque.  This is when the films become grossly visible and we term these hardened accumulations calculus (tarter).  Calculus is essentially many, many layers of bacteria that have hardened on the tooth surface.  Periodontal diseases are the result of interactions between plaque bacteria and the immune response developed by the host.  All infections start as gingivitis.  As infections become chronic, they progress beneath the gum line and cause tooth attachment loss (bone loss) and eventually tooth loss.  The main problem is chronic infection. Gingivitis and periodontal diseases are seemingly innocent and are often taken for granted.  It is the continual immune response to the plaque which supplies damaging enzymes and inflammatory mediators to the circulation.  It is this circulating inflammation that chronically damages the heart, blood vessels, kidneys, etc.  Toothbrushing is by far the single most effective means of removing plaque; however, it will not remove mineralized calculus once it has formed.  Most dogs and cats that have not received any form of oral hygiene will have gingivitis.  The recommendation should be daily toothbrushing, if the animal will allow it.   Periodontitis is characterized by the loss of attachment (bone) below the surface and it is always preceded by gingivitis.  Because the progression of periodontal disease is advanced by subgingival bacteria, which are, in turn, derived from supragingival bacteria, it necessarily follows that meticulous supragingival plaque control (toothbrushing) can reduce the risk for the development of or progression of periodontal disease. Limitations on what you are able to do with a toothbrush: Scientific research has demonstrated that the best human tooth brusher’s still miss removing plaque on up to 20% of the tooth surfaces.  No toothbrush reaches between the teeth where most periodontal disease is known to begin.  Flossing accomplishes the brushing between the teeth.  Even with flossing, some surfaces are missed and it is necessary for the dentist to professionally clean what we miss.  Therefore, it is daily home oral hygiene in combination with professional cleanings that control plaque and the level of oral health care.  One without the other will lead to eventual patient compromise. It is almost impossible to look at the complete inner and outer surfaces of our pet’s teeth let alone insert a toothbrush into the mouth.  Attempting to thoroughly toothbrush the inside surfaces, especially on the back teeth, is virtually impossible.  For the lower teeth alone, there isn’t room between the tongue and tooth surfaces to safely and comfortably insert a toothbrush.   It’s already established that unless you can also floss, you are missing probably the most important tooth surfaces. It is an established fact that 90% of humans are affected by periodontal inflammation and have existing periodontal pockets of equal to or greater than 4 mm.  This pocket depth will increase with age.  Although the scientific research hasn’t been done on animals, experience tells us that this is at least as bad in our pets.  Another limitation of toothbrushing is that the toothbrush will only reach 1mm below the gingival margin.  Therefore, toothbrushing cannot keep the established pockets that most of us have clean. Home dental care (toothbrushing):
  • Is not designed to be a substitute for regular professional cleanings.
  • Is not, by itself, an adequate treatment for established periodontal disease.
How often do we need to toothbrush? There are animals, especially of the larger breeds, that tend toward a natural resistance to periodontal disease.  There are people like this as well.  For these rare individuals, toothbrushing every few days may be adequate.  For most of our pets, especially if they already have established periodontal disease (pocketing), if they are not brushed at least once a day, you may be losing ground to periodontal disease. Do I need a toothbrush or can I use gauze or another material on my finger?  It is the mechanical action of the bristles that cleans the plaque.  Other objects like gauze and cotton swabs, may be better than nothing, however, they are significantly less effective than the bristles of the brush. Do I need a special toothbrush to brush my pet’s teeth?  The answer to this is no.  What you do need is a brush with small bristles.  Hard-bristle brushes may cause more trauma to the soft gums.  You can change toothbrushes as often as you do your own.  Match the size of the brush to the size of your pet.  A human pediatric or toddler brush will often work well.  There are also different sizes of brushes that fit over your finger (finger brushes).  Finger brushes do carry some risk of injury from being bitten.  A brush with traditional bristles should eventually replace the finger brush. Can I just place or rub the toothpaste on the gums?  No. In spite of claims that the toothpaste actually does something to kill plaque bacteria, there is no strong research to support this.  You do not need toothpaste to accomplish plaque removal.  It is the mechanical action of the toothbrush bristles that accomplishes the cleaning…not the paste. What is the purpose of the toothpaste? The benefit of the paste is that if your pet likes the flavor of the paste, we may be able to coax them into accepting the toothbrush.  Like a child, it’s much easier to get them to brush their teeth if they like the flavor of the paste. Which toothpaste should I use:  Do not use a human toothpaste, as they contain ingredients that cause an upset stomach or toxicity (fluoride).  The main goal is to have something flavorful and that your pet likes.  The flavored tooth paste may help the acceptance of brushing.  The second goal is to provide something that is “safe” for your pet to ingest.  This is an unregulated industry and many products contain ingredients that are not known and may be harmful.  We recommend using brands that have withstood the test of time on the safety issue.  We generally recommend the C.E.T brand (poultry, beef, vanilla flavors).   Tuna water may also be used for cats. Where should I focus toothbrushing: While brushing all tooth areas would be ideal, this is rarely accomplished.  The inner surfaces of the teeth often have less plaque and calculus and not areas on which to focus early efforts.  For most pets, the tongue does a relatively good job of keeping this surface clean and most pets will not tolerate action on this side.  Eventually, you may be able to work-up to these surfaces on your pet.  The areas of primary concern are the outside (labial) surfaces of the cheek teeth (premolars and molars), canine teeth and incisors.  If you only have seconds and need to know where best to focus your efforts, in general, attempt to brush the upper canine and cheek teeth. Teaching your pet to tolerate tooth brushing: In general, dogs will be easier to use a tooth brush with than cats.  Younger animals are more accepting than adults, but all can become accustomed to the routine.  The results are worth your time and energy.  Key points are to go slow (take baby steps) and be patient as each step of the training process may take weeks to months.  Most dogs will eventually accept brushing.  A pet that resists brushing may be doing so because they have painful areas in the mouth.  Try to make tooth brushing a pleasurable experience by following the session with praise, a treat, a game or play period.  You might begin by using a good tasting substance (flavored toothpaste (C.E.T. brand…poultry, beef flavors) or tuna water for cats) as a treat several times a day on your finger.  Over a number of days, progress to rubbing your finger at the gum line as your pet licks the treat.  Build up to spending more seconds and minutes in the mouth and over the full range of teeth.  Eventually replace the treat on your finger with a soft bristled tooth brush.  Special pet brushes are available; however, pediatric or human brushes also do a good job…whatever works adequately for you and your pet. Toothbrushing techniques:  For dogs, it is sometimes easier to access the teeth on the side of the mouth with the lips closed.  Gently pull the commissure of the lips backwards and insert the brush.  Bristles are angled at a 45 degree angle to the gum-line and moved back and forth or in small circular motions.  Advance the brush forward in the mouth.  Slight angle changes may accommodate the changes in tooth surfaces.  Some pets accept a toy inserted into the front of the mouth.  This can aid in holding the mouth open and accessing the lower teeth.  Attempt brushing motions for 30-60 seconds on each side. For cats, it may be best to massage/brush in a forward to back direction as this simulates their natural behavior when they rub against a person or object, inconspicuously marking the property with their saliva. Tooth brushing and home care for your cat: Acceptance of tooth brushing is a little more difficult with cats than dogs.  Brushing can be accomplished in most cats.  A very gradual (and gentle) approach that may take 1-2 months is often necessary.  As for dogs, teach to accept the paste as a treat off your finger and gradually work up to licking the treat off a small tooth brush (cat finger brushes are best).  Work up to spending more & more time in the mouth and then brushing back and forth. An excellent video on brushing teeth in cats can be viewed on the Cornell University Feline Health Center website: http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/health_resources, select health topics, scroll down and under the Oral/Dental section you can find the video. Complete oral hygiene:  Remember that good oral hygiene requires a combination of “home care” as well as professional dental cleanings.  The frequency necessary for professional dental cleaning will depend upon the individual patient’s needs.  A general recommendation is to have a professional cleaning performed every 12 months.  Some individuals might not require a cleaning once a year, however, especially with established periodontal disease, once every 12 months may not be near enough to keep infection under control.

Shaving/Hair Cutting

Closed, double-coated breeds like Golden Retrievers, have noticeably longer guard hairs, which lay down over the undercoat, sort of like a blanket. While the outer, or guard, hairs get wet, the undercoat works to keep the dog’s skin dry. It is extremely important to never shave a golden retriever down to the skin, this coat protects their skin from ALL types of weather and environmental factors.